Roman Jewelry Design Motifs
Although much of the jewelry produced in early Rome resembled Greek and Etruscan jewelry, new motifs were developed or derived from other cultures, and remained well-established throughout the ancient Roman period. Initially, Roman jewelry was somewhat more conservative and austere, when compared with other Mediterranean cultures, but relentless plundering soon led to a more ostentatious lifestyle.
Many Roman jewelry items were fashioned by Greek artisans, in the Greek style. An example of derivative Roman design was the Herakles knot, also known as the "knot of Hercules," or "marriage-knot," which was influenced by the ancient Egyptians and Greeks. This apotropaic (amulet and talisman) design was used as a protective amulet to ward off evil. The "Isis crown" was another motif borrowed from ancient Egypt, which was used frequently in earrings that were created during the second century BC.
Another popular jewelry motif invented by the Romans was the gold "hemisphere" which was used in necklaces, bracelets, and earrings (top of page, second from left). Also popular was the Roman motif depicting a coiling snake which symbolized immortality. The snake was typically fashioned into gold bracelets (above, left).
The "hoop earring" was another important Roman invention, appearing around 300 BC. Hoop earrings were commonly adorned with finials depicting animals, Maenads (aka Bassarids, Bacchae, or "wild, intoxicated women"), slaves, or the Greek god Eros.
Gemstones of Rome
Pearls from the Persian Gulf were a popular gemstone used in ancient Roman jewelry, which were combined with emerald and peridot from Egypt, and carnelian, jasper, lapis lazuli, and onyx from Persia. The gold, pearl and emerald earring in the photo (above, right) was discovered at a 2008 excavation of the Giv'ati car park in Jerusalem, and dates back to the Roman period, between the first century BCE and the beginning of the fourth century CE [12].
Amber was a favorite gemstone of the Romans who established the "Amber Route" to transport the precious gem from Gdansk, which had become the center of amber production, to Roman cities throughout the Empire. One of the most famous expeditions for the acquisition of amber occurred during Emperor Nero's reign, when a Roman equites (a member of the Roman equestrian order) reportedly brought back enough amber to build an entire stage for the gladiator fights.
Gemstones fashioned into cameo or intaglio cabochon portraits were also worn as rings and pendants (above, center).
Gemstones and pearls were particularly prized by the ancient Romans, as shown in the gold necklace (above, right) which was found in the ruins of Pompeii, and is generously set with emeralds and pearls. Toward the fall of the Roman Empire exotic gems from India and the Far East were plentiful, including blue sapphire and topaz from India or Sri Lanka.
Perhaps one of the first gemstone collectors was a 1st century BC Roman named Marcus Aemilius Scaurus, starting a collecting frenzy. The madness reached its zenith with Marcus Antonius (aka Mark Antony) offering a Roman Senator named Marcus Nonius a vast sum for a brilliant opal the size of a hazelnut, which Antonius wished to give to Cleopatra. When Nonius refused the offer he was told that he could part with the stone or leave Rome, and he chose the latter.
Roman Fashion & Censorship
There was a great deal of pressure to conform to the accepted style of the time, and a Roman Censor (Censorius) named Marcus Porcius Cato, or "Cato the Elder" (234-149 BC) drafted many rules and regulations against unchecked luxury. Cato imposed a heavy tax upon certain forms of dress and personal adornment, especially when worn by women. The word "censorship" was derived from Cato, who regarded the individual householder as the germ of the family, the family as the germ of the state. So strict was Cato that even a Roman senator would be reluctant to wear his gold signet ring in private.
Roman Jewelry Use
While Roman women would wear a wide variety of jewelry, a man would often wear only a single ring. Rings were commonly made of gold or electrum, and would sometimes feature a carved intaglio semi-precious stone that would be used in conjunction with hot wax to seal important documents (below, center). The gold "coin ring" (above, right) features a portrait of Emperor Marcus Aurelius (121 AD to 180 AD).
After death, well-heeled Roman women were laid to rest in a painted casket or sarcophagus that was decorated with encaustic (hot wax) paintings called "Fayum Mummy Portraits" (photos above). These portraits would show the deceased at a younger age, adorned with their finest clothing and jewelry.
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